Belcher Ring with 0.40-ct Antique Old Mine Cut Diamond

A 0.40-carat antique Old Mine cut diamond sits low in the carved claws of this 14k yellow gold Belcher ring. The claws are cut directly from the head of the ring, so setting and band are one piece, and the top of the diamond rests nearly level with the gold around it. Seen from above, the scalloped claws open like petals, which is why you'll also hear it called a buttercup setting.

Because the stone sits so low, a Belcher doesn't snag on sweaters, gloves or hair, and the diamond is well protected from knocks. The band tapers from 3.3 mm to 1.8 mm and stands 5.3 mm off the finger. It wears more like a band than a traditional engagement ring, which makes it a practical choice for active hands and for anyone pulling gloves on and off all day.

Where the name comes from, nobody fully agrees. The most colorful theory points to Jem Belcher, an English bare-knuckle boxing champion at the turn of the 1800s. A ring with a slightly mysterious past suits a piece meant to become an heirloom.

Good antique Belcher rings are getting harder to find, and the ones that turn up are often worn thin. This ring is cast from a mold taken directly off an original antique Belcher mounting in my collection and reproduced by master craftsmen, keeping the proportions, the carved claws and that satisfying weight.

The diamond is a reclaimed antique stone, a break-out taken from antique jewelry that couldn't be saved. Cut by hand, it has the high crown, small table and larger facets of 19th-century work, with a softer, warmer sparkle than a modern cut. No two look quite alike, and reusing it means no new mining.

Available as a semi-mount for clients who wish to set their own diamond; center stones must measure between 4-4.5 mm in diameter.

Diamond: Antique Old Mine Cut Diamond Earth Mined
Weight: 0.40 ct exact
Measurements: 4.49 x 4.02 x 2.94 mm
Color: [TK]
Clarity: [TK]
Cut: Old Mine Cut

Dimensions: 3.3 - 1.8 mm / 5.3 mm high off the finger
Metal: 14k yellow gold
Size: 6.75 (inquire about sizing)
Weight: 4.3 grams